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Frequently Asked Questions About Moesbach's Bed Bug Heaters

How many different models of the Bed Bug Heaters does Mosebach offer?

There are (7) different models: the BK5, BK10, BK15, BK20, BK10L, BK15L, and BK20L.

The “L” Means locally controlled. The Models without the “L” have a remote thermostat except the BK5. This allows the operator to monitor the temperature without entering the treatment area.

The BK10 & BK10L has (6) 120v inputs. Each input draws 13A for a total of 79A.

The BK15 & BK15L has (4) 120v inputs and (2) 240v inputs. The 120v inputs each draw 13A for a total of
52A. The 240v inputs each draw 15A for a total of 30A.

The BK20 & BK20L has (6) 120v inputs and (1) 240v input. Each input draws 13A for a total of 79A. The
240v input draws 40A.

Why are there six 120V inputs on the BK10, BK10L, BK20, and BK20L?

The 120V inputs can supply only a limited power based on the size of the circuit. The six (6)
Inputs split the total amperage draw of 79A into one (1) 14 input (for the master connection) and five (5) 13A inputs, allowing each connection to draw power from a 120V power supply on a 15A circuit without tripping a breaker or blowing a fuse.

Which of the 120V extension cords must be plugged in for use?

The master / control power 120V extension cord must be plugged in or the unit will not operate.
This input is the one labeled 15A.

Do I need all six 120 volt extension cords plugged in?

No, the units will run with fewer than six cords plugged in but at a reduced heat output. We recommend using all six plugs as that will allow the unit to produce the most heat which provides the quickest heating time, the ability to treat a larger space than with fewer than all six plugs, and to ensure that the desired temperature is reached.

Can I use all six 120 volt extension cords and the 240 volt extension cord at the same time?

The BK20, BK20L, BK15, and BK15L are designed to use both 120 volts and 240 volts at the same time but do not have to.

What size power cord should I use?

It depends on how long the extension cord is. For 120 volts the wire must be at least #14 wire for up to 50 feet and # 12 wire for anything above 50ft. For 240 volt minimum wire size is a #6 for up to 100 feet.

What size space can be treated with our Bed Bug Heaters?

Treatment times will vary depending on the type of construction and the conditions of the treatment area, the objects in the treatment area, and the voltage supplied to the unit. Our testing was in a 256 square foot chamber with 8 foot ceilings constructed of Styrofoam (R-10 insulation).

How long will a treatment take?

Treatment must be long enough to ensure that the bed bugs and eggs are subjected to lethal temperatures and times. This means that after the initial rise to desired temperature, that there will be a period of time where that high temperature is maintained to allow the heat to penetrate any objects being treated. This would likely be several hours, but will depend largely on how quickly the objects being treated absorb heat. Spacing out the objects in the treatment area and circulating the heat will aid in the objects absorbing heat from the air more quickly. Check here for  a more complete explanation of heat treatment

Why is it taking so long to heat the area?

There are many factors that affect heating times. They include size of the area, voltage levels in the building and construction of the space. Please see Heating Time Section in the owner's manual. Heating times can be decreased by adding insulation or covering doors, windows, vents, etc.

Where can I use a Bed Bug Heater?

The unit must have adequate power supply (refer to the spec sheet or quote for voltage, amperage, and power consumption). Supplying voltages other than those listed may result in decreased performance. The unit must be powered such that it is grounded and the power supply must be fused and grounded. The unit is rated for indoor use only.

Should I keep the Bed Bug Heater inside the heated area?

The heater will work best if the heater is kept inside the area being heated. For the remote versions the sensors must remain in the area. The included thermostat can be used either inside the room or outside of the room.

How is the temperature monitored on the Locally Controlled Bed Bug Heaters?

There is an internal temperature probe mounted just inside the fan of the heater that monitors the temperature of the air coming into the heater.

Can I keep the Thermostat inside the Treatment area with the remote versions?

Yes. The Thermostat can be left inside the heated area.

For the remote versions, where should I place the sensors?

At least one sensor should be placed at ceiling level above and in front of the heater’s exhaust. It is most likely the hottest place in the treatment area. The other sensor can be placed anywhere in the treatment area.

What should be my set point on the thermostat?

The controller is preset at the factory for a temperature of 135°F. The operator must verify that any objects in the treated area are allowed to be at the treatment temperature and for the duration of the treatment. If the area has fire suppression (sprinkler) system, the operator must ensure that treatment does not exceed the allowable temperature of the fire suppression (sprinkler) system.

How does the thermostat work on the Bed Bug Heater?

If the thermostat is set at 135°F the heater will begin to heat the room up to that temperature. Once the temperature in the treatment area reaches 135°F the heating elements will disengage but the fan will continue to circulate the air in the room. Once the room temperature drops 5°F the heating elements will reengage and heat the room back up to 135°F. This cycle will continue until the heater is shut off by the operator.

What should the differential be?

We suggest 5 degrees.

I want to use a generator. What kind of generator do you recommend?

For our recommended generator, please refer to the Bed Bug Heaters Accessories quote. If you have not received an Accessories quote, contact a Mosebach sales representative.

I hear a continuous clicking sound, what’s wrong?

Clicking means that there is not enough air being moved through the heater. Sometimes the clicking does not start until the area is heated. In both cases the most common cause is low voltage. Increase the size of the wire being used in the extension cords or reduce the cord’s length. The Bed Bug Heaters are rated for 120V or 240V single phase electric. Supplying less voltage may result in insufficient airflow causing the clicking sound.

The fan is running, but there is no heat.

First, check the connection of the thermostat unit and set points. Second, make sure the air intake is further than three feet from a wall and it is unobstructed.
Lastly, verify the power supply / voltage to the master / control plug is correct.

Who can I contact with additional questions?

If you have any additional questions or concerns, please contact Mosebach Manufacturing at
support@mosebachresistors.com. Please provide the serial number, part number, contact information and a detailed description of the question or concern.